Isolated in the Pacific, the island of Nauru, world's smallest republic, was once world's richest country because of phosphate resources. Nauru holds currently diabetes and obesity highest levels though weightlifting is the national sport.

By the Skin of His Teeth

On the island of Nauru, a young noddy hunter practices a skill that’s been passed down for centuries—one that now requires more patience.

Son of Gerard Jones, Nauru's weightlifting trainer, hunting Noddy birds. Recording of a Noddy bird distress call is played. Noddy birds, coming back from foraging at sea, hear the call and then usually swoop down. The hunter catches them in a large net and then kill the birds by biting down on their necks. The birds, a local delicacy, are later cooked and eaten or sold 1 US$/bird, a way to compliment an income.
Photograph by Matthieu Paley
Story by Steven Bedard
Isolated in the Pacific, the island of Nauru, world's smallest republic, was once world's richest country because of phosphate resources. Nauru holds currently diabetes and obesity highest levels though weightlifting is the national sport.
Son of Gerard Jones, Nauru’s weightlifting trainer, hunting Noddy birds. Recording of a Noddy bird distress call is played. Noddy birds, coming back from foraging at sea, hear the call and then usually swoop down. The hunter catches them in a large net and then kill the birds by biting down on their necks. The birds, a local delicacy, are later cooked and eaten or sold 1 US$/bird, a way to compliment an income.

Nauru, officially the Republic of Nauru is an island nation in Micronesia in the South Pacific. Nauru was declared independent in 1968 and it is the world’s smallest independent republic, covering just 21 square kilometers.
Nauru is a phosphate rock island and its economy depends almost entirely on the phosphate deposits that originate from the droppings of sea birds. Following its exploitation it briefly boasted the highest per-capita income enjoyed by any sovereign state in the world during the late 1960s and early 1970s.
In the 1990s, when the phosphate reserves were partly exhausted the government resorted to unusual measures. Nauru briefly became a tax haven and illegal money laundering centre. From 2001 to 2008, it accepted aid from the Australian government in exchange for housing a Nauru detention centre, with refugees from various countries including Afghanistan and Iraq.
Most necessities are imported on the island.
Nauru has parliamentary system of government. It had 17 changes of administration between 1989 and 2003. In December 2007, former weight lifting medallist Marcus Stephen became the President.

It’s a surprising technique to be sure, but it’s hard to argue with its efficiency. A swift bite to the neck and the quarry goes limp. While the kill may be simple, catching a night-flying black noddy (Anous minutus) is another matter—one that’s only become more challenging in recent decades for the noddy hunters of Nauru.

Black noddies are common on and around islands throughout the tropics, from Australia to Africa. In many places, the birds find an abundance of small fish, which they snatch from just beneath the ocean surface, as well as small trees in which to construct their nests. Such was the case on the South Pacific island of Nauru, too. For centuries, islanders here have used large nets to catch the birds as they fly in to their night roosts. But habitat loss and hunting pressure have taken a heavy toll.

The decline in Nauru’s noddy population is somewhat surprisingly connected to the island nation’s boom-and-bust economy. Between its independence in 1968 and the late 80s, Nauru enjoyed tremendous wealth, thanks to its abundance of phosphate—essentially the accumulation of centuries upon centuries of now-fossilized bird crap—which was mined and sold to other nations for fertilizer. At one point, thanks to phosphate, the world’s smallest independent nation was also one of the richest in per capita GDP.

By the late 90s, however, Nauru’s phosphate reserves were all but depleted, and their extraction had left the island’s fragile ecosystems in ruin. The forests that served as noddy rookeries weren’t spared. With its breeding grounds decimated, the noddy population here plummeted alongside Nauru’s economy. Meanwhile, with unemployment soaring, Nauruans were increasingly turning to noddy hunting as a means of supplementing their incomes and diets.

While many species would have succumbed to these pressures, the population here has benefited from the noddy’s wide distribution and natural tendency to fly long distances and colonize new islands. Studies of noddies banded elsewhere in the Pacific have found individuals on Nauru that hatched as far away as the Northwest Hawaiian Islands, more than 4,000 kilometers (2,485 miles) away. It’s not known whether immigrants like these have joined the breeding population, or whether the regular influx of new birds makes the current level of hunting pressure sustainable. But for now, Nauru’s noddies and the people they support are holding on by their teeth.

Nauru

Authors
Photographer

@paleyphoto

Born in France, Matthieu Paley has traveled all over the world for National Geographic. Focusing his efforts on regions that are misrepresented or misunderstood, Paley is especially committed to issues relating to diminishing cultures and the environment. More of his work can be seen on his Instagram account @paleyphoto.

Steven Bedard

@steventbedard

stbedardstbedardwww.stevenbedard.org

Steven Bedard is the co-founder and editor-in-chief of bioGraphic. He has spent the past 20+ years writing and producing science content for long-form feature stories, short- and long-form documentaries, immersive, multi-screen experiences, interactive simulations, and hundreds of articles and essays on topics ranging from astrophysics and archaeology to genetics, evolution, and public health. As a former field biologist who spent the early 90s studying spotted owls and northern goshawks, he has found his happiest place covering nature, conservation, and solutions to the current biodiversity crisis for bioGraphic.